Monday, May 28, 2012

Italy – Day 1 – Aberdeen to Bellagio


The second of our three European Grand Tours – Southern France, Italy & Spain – started off in a well-organized fashion.  We had less trouble packing than we thought, considering we were going away for three weeks.  Neither of our bags were overweight and it somehow seemed less stressful getting everything together.  Perhaps all the travel we have done over the last four years left us with something more than great memories and clutch of fantastic photos.

            We didn’t even get stressed when we got to Aberdeen airport and saw a line up of about 300 people for security.  The queue snaked outside the security area and almost outside the airport door.  Considering that we had never seen more than 10-20 people in line, this came as quite a shock.  The little sign above the security area still helpfully blinked a message stating it would be only 4-8 minutes.  We figured the line would take about 30-40 minutes to work its way through.  This wouldn’t be a problem for anyone at any normal airport where people know to allocate sufficient time for security, but people come to Aberdeen airport expecting to breeze right through in 5 minutes or less, so a bunch of people got really antsy about missing their flights.  This led to queue-jumping, and if there is one thing British people will stand up for, it is the sanctity of the queue. 

            For us it all worked out with minimal drama, we made it on board our flight just as they were announcing last call.  We took a quick, painless hop to Heathrow, had a nice bite to eat and then boarded our flight to Milan.  Although it was about a half hour late taking off, it too was relatively painless and the cloudless skies gave us nice views as we came in to the city.  Milan Linate airport was smaller than we imagined, with only a 30 second bus ride from plane to terminal and an imminently manageable luggage pickup – we were the first bags on the carousel!  So in a matter of minutes we were at the car rental agency picking up the keys to our Hyundai.  A quick change of clothes later to accommodate the increase in temperature and we were on the motorways of Milan, snaking through the city and heading north towards Lake Como.

            I always worry a little bit about driving in a foreign country.  First there is the rental car – you always get something with a super loose clutch and there is nothing more embarrassing than stalling out twice in front of the car rental people.  But in this case the car was fine and I have yet to stall it out.  And going back to a manual after more than a year of driving an automatic really was no problem.  Secondly, there is the fact that you have no idea where you are going and signage isn’t always overly helpful.  But I’ve got the Tom-Tom, loaded up with all new maps, and Fiona to interpret it’s instructions.  She’s probably a more important navigational tool than all those satelites and computers.  We made it through Milan without one wrong turn and without having to cut any of the local drivers off.  Next, there are the foreign drivers to deal with.  Having driven through Italy before I was already comfortable with the maxim that the rules of the road are really more like suggestions and that the only thing to concentrate on are the things in front of you – everyone else can worry about the sides and rear.  Lastly, there are the roads.  Last time we were here we stuck mostly to the autostrada, big open highways with perfect pavement and excellent driving conditions.  This time we took a few smaller highways and a ridiculously narrow stretch between Lecco and Bellagio where there were barely two car widths between the sheer wall of limestone on one side and the lakeside barrier on the other.  Oncoming traffic rarely slowed down and was often cutting corners, so I would find myself in the unique situation of both consciously thinking about which side of the road I was supposed to be on and questioning my decision everytime I saw an oncoming car.  It was a wee bit harrowing, but thankfully was only a 20 km stretch of our journey.

            We arrived at our hotel and booked into our room, a second floor room with a balcony overlooking the lake.  The views were spectacular, even with the humidity induced haze that seems to hang over the whole area.  You could still clearly see the little villages on the other side, and every so often the sun would burst through and hit selected patches of the mountain, turning the dolomite this wonderful orangey-red colour.  I think we sat out on the balcony and stared for quite some time.

            We eventually went downstairs for dinner and had a great little Italian meal.  Fiona had a nice pasta dish with leeks and carrots and a delicate little cream sauce and I had terrine made from the local lake whitefish.  Fiona’s main course beef was perfectly done and worked well with the local Lombardy wine we tried.  My curried chicken was a less perfect match but was so deliciously tender that it didn’t matter.

            After dinner we came back up to the room and did a little bit of planning before going to bed.  It had been a long day and we were quite tired.  The bed was large and comfortable and we knew that the morning sun and chorus of birdsong that appears everywhere you go here would be waking us up early the next morning.  Plus, given the beauty of our location we were excited about the opportunity to get out and explore.



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