The flowers here are another spectacular part of the background. Large, fragrant roses grow everywhere and it seems that dashes of colour fill every sun-soaked spot. Perhaps it was a little redundant, then, to spend Monday morning wandering around a garden? After breakfast we took off on foot towards the Villa Melzi, located on the other side of the peninsula. Stopping only to lose my bank card in one of the local machines (we quickly got it back), we hoofed it across town taking in the quiet street scenes.
The Villa Melzi was built in the early 1800's by one of Napoleon's best pals. As he tended to do with most of his friends, Napoloeon made the Duc Melzi d'Eril of Lodi the vice-president of the Cisalpine Republic, which governed northern Italy. The Duc built himself a nice lakeside villa and put in a splendid set of gardens. After getting past the guard ducks, we wandered past fish ponds with Japanese maples hanging over them and vast stands of azaleas, of which only the purple ones were still in bloom. Apparently we missed the blooming of the rest by a week or so. Closer to the house was another pond and fountain, this one covered in water lillies and backed by gorgeous stands of calla lillies. Given that, the blue sky and the magnificent views across the lake, it was almost too much to take in at once.
We walked around the gardens, through the bamboo forest, under a stunning dogwood and into a small out-building that housed some of the Duc's mementos, including a set of posters showing all the Napoleonic royalty, set up almost as if they were from a trading card set. I've got the Prince of Westphalia! I'll trade you two Cisalpine Presidents for him!
It was a nice relaxing start to the day and we dragged it out as long as we could. Eventually, after another round of sunscreen, we made it back to the town centre, where we had a cold drink and a gelato. Lunch was a slice of fantastic prosciutto pizza in the hand while we wandered some more of the side streets of Bellagio. Fiona found herself a new sun hat and I found myself hectored by the same old shopowner into buying a new hat as well. She simply would not let me leave with my current hat, claiming such a warm hat would have ill-effects on my health.
Properly hatted, we made our way back to the marina to board a water taxi. Fiona had arranged for a two-hour private tour of the lake. Our guide was Luca, the third generation of his family to be touring the lake in the swanky Venetian-style cigarette boats, resplendent with polished wood and comfortable leather.
Luca opened a bottle of prosecco for us and took us around the various arms of the lake, regaling us with stories about the villas and the people who owned them, as well as with interesting facts about the lake. We swung around the point of the peninsula and past our hotel, and then went across the lake to see Varenna, which had had some problems with landslides over the past few years. Fiona got a great shot of the city, as well as of some tightly packed smaller houses, which turned out to be mausoleums, or, as Luca put it, "the last villa you ever enter". The houses of Varenna were all brightly coloured so that the fishermen could see their homes in bad weather, although it was debated whether or not is was really meant for alcohol induced fogs.
While we thought we were touring in style, we came across another boat who could also lay claim to that. It was a brightly painted car, with a patio umbrella sticking out of the middle, put-putting across the lake. Quite cool.
From Varenna we went across the lake again to the sunnier, Como side. There were magnificent churches and fabulous villas, some with 'No George' signs on the outside to warn the tourists that their villa was not Mr. Clooney's. We saw Richard Branson's villa, which you can rent for the cool sum of $160,000 a week, and the villa where they shot some scenes from Casino Royale and Star Wars. All the houses were beautiful and the stories about their owners interesting.
Sadly the tour did come to an end, and after getting some advice from Luca about Venice (and a contact for a boat tour there) we trouped back up to our hotel room. Minutes later we were back out at the pool, taking a refreshing dip to wash away all the sunshine, sweat and sunscreen. Properly energized we set out for dinner in town, at a restaurant recommended by Giovanna in our hotel. Aces to her, because it was excellent. We had a great starter of beef carpaccio and shared a lasagna pasta course. I had a nice pork dish with a balsamic reduction sauce that was to die for. Our tiramisu dessert came out with a little candle on top, a nice touch to celebrate my birthday. We enjoyed all this while sitting outside, under an awning. It will be a hard dinner to top.
Back at the hotel we caught up with Skype and some blogging while enjoying a drink on the balcony. As the sky darkened and cleared, stars started appearing in the sky, just as I had been remarking that I felt bad for the people here due to the fact that the permanent haze must mean that they never see a great starscape. I guess the man upstairs must have sent me a birthday present as well.
Interesting note as I sit here typing this morning, the bed is shaking back and forth a little. Fiona's said the same about the balcony. It must be a little earthquake. I have to say that is the first time I've ever experienced that.
Don't worry, Mom, it was just a gentle sway, nothing major.
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