We took a taxi to Trinity College where the main attraction is the Book of Kells - ancient copies of the four gospels. It is also a working univeristy (opened by Queen Elizabeth I in the 1500's), but we had a hard time imagining how students could concentrate with the masses of tourists. We stood in a substantial queue but eventually made it in. The flyers and posters show clear, bright pages with vivid colours and we were unprepared for what should have been obvious, that a 1200 year old book is most likely to be a little faded. The number of tourists was also a little off-putting - it was hard to really see everything and take the time that the display deserved.
We also enjoyed the old library. Old, dark wood panelling and barrel vaulted ceiling, all walls covered by ancient books. A exhibition of books and letters related to the life and time of Napoleon was also quite interesting. The gift shop seemed to be of most interest to everyone, though.
Our next stop was just down the street from the College. A statue of Molly Malone at the head of Grafton Street. She's the subject of an Irish pub song - she's the one selling "cockles and mussels, alive, alive-oh". Locally the statue is referred to as the "Tart with a Cart". Looking at the picture, it seems apt.
Leprechaun count: 1.
I think I know what the problem was with finding these sprites before - I was looking for something that topped out at maybe 2 or three feet. Apparently the leprechauns have been working out and hitting the steroids, because they're now well over 6 feet tall. I guess it helps keep the pot o' gold safe.
Dublin Castle was next. It was an interesting hodge-podge of historical buildings and exhibits. There was a barrel tower and some oddly painted side buildings, a grand hall, a nice garden and the Chester Beatty Library. The latter is worth mentioning because of its exhibit of rare and ancient books. It was an amazing combination of Chinese, European, Persian, Mughal and Islamic books. The detail in the illustrations was awe-inspiring. We would definitely recommend this slightly out of the way location.
After a lunch that included a nice sherry trifle for Ethna, we went into Christ Church Cathedral. It was beautifully laid out with gorgeous floors - a first for us and our major church tours. Usually the walls, ceilings and windows receive most of the attention. Here the floors were just as amazing. A choir was also practising, which helped set the mood. The crypt was also open for tours, filled with relics and treasures. We would recommend this church over the slightly more famous St. Patrick's.
St. Patrick's was a little disappointing. Still beautiful and quite grand, and with Jonathan Swift buried just inside the doorway, it was a little less impressive than Christ Church. But how can you go to Dublin without seeing St. Pat's.
We circled back to Grafton Street to do some shopping. It was a nice mixture of high end and regular shoppes. Fiona bought me a traditional Claddagh ring. We somehow made it past the Hermes store with our wallets intact.
We found an evening mass at small downtown church, after which we stumbled upon a fantastic little restaurant called the Mermaid Cafe. The staff were fabulous and friendly and the food was some of the best we have had on this trip. Fiona's pork chop was especially good. It is not often that I get jealous of someone else's order, but I have to admit I was a little green ...
After supper we re-traced Ethna's old route to work, going first through Temple Bar and across the Ha'penny Bridge (toll used to be a ha'penny). We walked along the Liffey to Bachelor's Row. Unfortunately the building she used to work in was being renovated, so it was covered up with a tarp.
We walked a little further to O'Connell Street, where statues of the Irish Patriots who took part in the Easter Rebellion are located. We stopped in front of the Post Office, where they made their stand and marveled at the Spire, a 300 foot spike in the place where Admiral Nelson's column used to be (blown up by the IRA in '66). A little further down towards the docks we came upon the Custom's House and a series of statues to commemorate all those who left Ireland during the Potato Famine.
By the time we got back to our hotel it was quite late. Our plans for a quick drink in the bar were scuttled by the vast numbers of hurley fans which seem to have invaded our hotel. Everyone is pretty jazzed for Limerick v Tipperary on Sunday. I've seen some hurley on TV the last few days and I now wish I had tickets. It looks like an exciting game that would be well worth watching.
Back to Scotland in the morning!
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